Over?

Never! I am already plotting next years escape with a slightly larger budget and less flea bits and tummy rot!

Arequipa and beyond...

Beyond the poverty line. I look like a bum and smell like a junk! I think my days of backpacking may be coming to a close. I am truly not cut out for this anymore! I have no clean underwear and I have hair in places not Seen since my teen years!
I go to bed at night dreaming of getting my legs waxes and enjoying some clean clothing!!!! I have also noticed a small amount of facial hair starting to sprout. I am hoping its due to the extreme weather conditions that we have fallen across.
I actually blame my years working as a conference/travel consultant as I know how the other half lives and it sure as hell is nothing like this! If these hobos I am snuggling up with knew what I was dreaming (mainly parting with the family at Heathrow and booking myself into the Waldorf for a couple of days) they would surly rob me, but luckily the children are heavy sleepers and don´t know where I keep my cash!
We are waiting for a bus to Nazca as Roland feels the need for speed! I feel the need for early widowdom as the idiot wants to take some lightweight aircraft over the lines in the morning. I have already been practicing my extreme sorrow face! After we are heading back to Lima and then onto Iquitos as we are going to the jungle for a week. Its looks quite nice and means that we can spend some time on the Amazon in reasonable safety.
I may need to wash my pants in the Amazon as the situation is looking quite desperate, even more so after Nazca tomorrow!

Colca Canyon & Condors

Arequipa

Tacna

We took a flight out of Tacna to Arequipa to cover some miles. The thought of another bed bus was making me feel ill. Everything went smoothly and we were only 1 hour late due to no reasonable explanation. The flight had a party atmosphere, i. e nobody took their seats and followed the safety procedure. The flight attendant pointed at a picture of the airline seat and indicated that if we should crash land you should use these as floats.
Roland looked a little stressed and said " we are flying over desert"!.

Tacna and Chile

Last night we got a bed bus to Tacna from Puno. It was supposed to be one of these luxury double decker buses with beds etc. was it bollocks, the seats that we paid extra for reclined to about 45 degrees so admittedly it was a little more comfortable than the seats upstairs, but it wasn`t what we were expecting. They showed a film The Last King of Scotland in Spanish so I nodded off Claire it turns out watched it all as she couldn't sleep. Then suddenly it got hot, really hot and Claire woke me saying if we don't get some air we will die of carbon monoxide poisoning like the refugees in containers. For some reason i couldn't get properly back to sleep but at least the air con came on the other side of the bus to cool us down some. A relaxing nights sleep on the bus was not going to happen.

At 700am in the morning Tacna came over a bit of a dump so we wandered around the centre before checking into the hotel. We chose the best one in town for a few days R&R and its actually pretty shabby, but beggars cant be choosers.

As La Paz and the Bolivian salt flats are off the menu we decided to go to Chile instead. Therefore we spent an hour booking flights etc in a travel agents, but changed our minds again as there are still strikes and demonstrations happening in Peru and the 28th is the 150th anniversary of independence, so we could not guarantee we could take the train do the border crossing and catch a plane, urgency and time keeping has not yet caught on in Peru. So now we are going to go to Iquitos and the amazon rain forest.

But to get our Chile stamp we caught the train this afternoon to Arica in Chile so we trundled of to the train station and oh my god what a shambles, the guy selling the tickets also dealt with the passport control and once they sold all the tickets they locked the station doors while they sorted everyone out, all that was missing was the creates of chickens. The train itself was like something from a museum only older. It was a single car DMU with sliding wood windows ( at last these closed unlike in Thailand ). Sat along side it in the station there was a number of real steam locomotives just parked up, although they didn't look like they had moved in some time.

When we finally got moving the train went out the station and down the road where we brushing by pedestrians and being undercut by taxi drivers. We slowly made our way through the towns streets where you could see the massive sand dunes on the edge of town and behind them in the distance was snow capped mountains, it makes for quite a bizarre image. We then trundled our way through the desert (and when I mean desert I really mean desert it was a full blown thing with sand dunes and sand blowing across the track behind us) into Chile and the city of Arica.

We then got the bus back to Tacna, or we thought we were getting the bus only we go a bit duped and ended up sharing a taxi the 40 odd miles back. Both of us were a little bit pissed at this as going on public transport is always an experience to remember.

Black Hole

We arrived in Copacabana smoothly, it is a small boarder town with pedalos on the Lake (yes, pedalos) We checked into our average hotel and plotted a route to Sun Island, where the sun was born. We talked about going onto La paz, but after chatting with a group of Dutch girls, who said that the salt flats dropped in Temperature to -20 at night we have rethought our plans and are heading out of this one horse town to Tacna. The electricity has been off for about 24 hours and I am aware that we have no showered since Cusco!


The view from our window over the lake is to die for, it truly is. Is has been worth the trek. It is however f*cking freezing, Piper nearly puked on me on a boat across the lake and I have some weird bites (I am sure from fleas) on my legs. I ate some kind of road kill last night and Piper nearly broke a tooth on some "pizza" type product.
My visa also appears to have been dated 2 weeks before I arrived in Bolivia which I am sure is going to cost me tomorrow at the boarder!

Puno

The train to Puno was fantastic. Puno is a bit of a pit and quite a frightening pit at that. We took a taxi one block to our hotel where the average temperature was about - 5. I have never been so cold. Puno is not the greatest place on earth but it is the gate way to Lake Titicaca and Bolivia.
To say I was glad to leave was a slight understatement. The Hostel owner asked me to write a hostel review. The shower was dangerous, the windows did not shut, the bedrooms were more than freezing and there was a distinct smell of death outside the bathroom. At night we wedged a chair up against the door as the owner seamed to be able to access it at all time.

Great Train Journey

Today we travelled from Cuzco to Puno on the train which apparently one of the great train journeys of the world. The section we were in had large armchairs instead of normal seats and at the back was a bar and open air observation car it was pretty cool.

It started off in typical fashion the clown in the hostel hadn´t got breakfast ready, so when it did arrive we had to rush our tea and bread rolls. At the station this woman snootily commented that Piper & Darcey wouldn´t be able to sit still for the 10 hours the train took. Much to my delight she had to pass our seats every time she wanted to go to the observation bar.


The train was real luxury and we had waiter service the entire time, we had free whisky sours in the bar and there was a fashion parade by these two models in skin tight catsuits, and our poor waiter got dragged in as well, but he didn´t seem to be able to take it seriously.

The only problem was there was 20 french tourists in our carriage and a particularly old biddy across from us who didn´t shut up the whole gabbing away and generally bitching the way they do when the door was opened. They were even worse at the observation car pushing and elbowing their stinking way to the best spots. Complete tossers all of them.

The train stopped at the worlds highest train station were we all got off and had a wander round, another chance to be sold Alpca produced goods. The two models got off here to catch the bus back to Cuzco. Up until now we had been following the river through a mountainous valleys, but after this point we were onto a high plateau with more mountains and large hills in the distance. Mile after mile after mile, it did get a bit monotonous after a while.


The next real highlight for me was Julica, described as driving through Albert Looms scrapyard and not wrong. As we entered Julica a market was taking place directly beside the railway line and some stall holders had actually placed goods between the railway lines, crazy. Anything and everything seemed to be for sale at the market and you could reach out grab some of the stuff as the stalls were that close. It would be interesting to see there kinematic gauge.

Before we finally arrived at Puno we had to make a special stop at some grand hotel outside of town to let all the french off. You could see the short stroll to reception for them. I say again they are all tossers.

When we arrived at Puno it was absolutely bedlam outside, taxis, buses and bicycle rickshaws, apparently this is the first time the train has ran in 20 days.

Hayley from Derby!!!!!!!!

We did a deal at the ticket office to get Piper a train ticket home, well almost. All the trains were fully booked so we exchanged our ticket for tickets to Ollantambo. It is about 2 hours from Cusco by bus.
Whilst I was sorting out train tickets a very helpful lady came over to tell me about a bus we could catch back to Cusco. Her name is Hayley and strangely she lives in Derby less than 5 miles away! Too strange to be true!!!!!!!!

Macchu Pichu On Thursday

After nearly missing the train and getting a sore bum on the long train ride to the Macchu Pichu. The view was just like this. It was breath taking, busy, hot, steep and definitely made by aliens. There is no way tiny little Inca men made this, it is not possible.
We have a bit of a scuffle with the guide, Piper ended up with out a train ticket home and no entry to the site. I may have snatched a ticket off the guide and threatened her with violence, but we got into the site.

Met Simon and Sari in Cusco!

I met Simon about the same time I met Roland light years ago! It was one of the best moments when we ran into him in Cusco last week outside Jacks Cafe!

Bye Bye Libertador

We have now been holed up in the Libertador Hotel for the last two days to enable Darcey to have a quiet couple of days while she acclimatises. We now have to return to our hostel, it will be such a wrench to leave.

Yesterday we stayed just in the hotel, a lazy breakfast then just in the business centre or watching TV in our room (Girls of the Playboy Mansion so it wasn´t all bad). Late afternoon we ventured up into the main square and got some food and did some window shopping of the tourist tat.

Today we are just going to explore Cuzco a bit more, as tomorrow we are off to Macchu Pichu.

Ah yes, I think I have some delly belly, therefore it could be interesting on the train tomorrow.

Cusco

I am currently sat in the very plush Libertador Hotel in Cusco!
We got away from Lima early yesterday morning and flew over the Andie's (not that impressive). We landed In Cusco and to my great relif there was a little board with my name in it. Nobody has ever met me with a board ( James-Frank et al!)
The Hostel is a bit natural but very cost effective!
We had a bit of a plan to meet Simon Hewitt and Sari at Jacks Cafe for lunch as he is also by coincidence travelling around South America. Unfortunately Darcey got altitude sickness and had to go to the Doctors. She was on oxygen all afternoon. The Doctor said that the best thing was R and R, or I think she may have said that if I understood Spanish at all. So we checked into the nicest place we could find so, she could get some rest, with TV, warm rooms and all the trappings of a 5* pad. (I am so cut out for his life style!)
Darcey instantly looked better the second Roland handed over his credit card. Thank God.
I am glad we decided to check in here and not just for the room service, spa and excellent food. Today there was a protest in Cusco with lots of shouting and whistles and bells. I observed this from the safety of the billiard room sipping some coco tea!

We are here until Wednesday and hopefully riot friendly we are off to Matchuu Pitchu on Thursday. We have tickets out to Puno on the weekend but are rethinking La Paz and the salt flats as the altitude climbs again.
Darcey has no concept of the meaning of calm and relaxation which I think was a contributing factor to her sickness in the first place.
Roland is trying to teach them to play chess, I see no R and R from that end of the room only heated arguments about which piece moves where.

One for James.

The Money shot!

Packed and away

Roland thought that a 40 litre back pack would be great for a month away from home for two people. At about 10pm on the Thursday (we had to leave at midnight) I watched as he sped off in the direction of Tescos in the hope of getting a bigger pack.

Roland is the most hopeless packer, and I was about to kill him, so it was in fact a blessing!
Everything went the plan, the car park was easy to find, cheap and very well set out. The transfer from the car park to the airport would have been good if the bus driver was not a complete and utter wanker.

I love KLM, I think they are the best airline about. They feed you to death and could not be more helpful ( my only complaint is that people in cattle who have red hair and are a little bit tubby should get a Delft house) I had a moaning old git behind me who thought that children should not recline their seats and told Piper so while I went for a walk.

I think he was French.

After too many arse crunching hours we arrived at Lima. Roland got out his map and flashed his cash and neglected to keep a low profile. When you read about people being mugged think of this: Roland and I went to St Lucia many years ago and went on a tour of the Island one day as I had a broken leg, but had cut my cast off one the beach a few day prior so I could go in the sea.

I only had one shoe so couldn't´t walk too far. In the poorest shanty town you have ever seen, Roland strayed off and I found him chatting to an old man who was working on a dug out canoe.
As I approached to my horror I hear heard him telling the poor old man that he lived in a massive house and designed trains. I would have mugged him myself if he had not have shut up! Not five minutes later he was stood on the end of a jetty exchanging pleasantries with some crack head (please note Roland can not swim) The crack head was asking him for money, what a surprise! We escaped this time missing just a packet of Marlborough. If push had come to shove, I would have shoved!

We are staying at the Inca Lodge in the Miraflores, which is cheapish, clean, nice and the staff are very nice. Its in a good location and breakfast is included for $12 per night.
We went to bed at 7pm on the Friday and woke at 7 am on the Saturday.
So far so good.

Nearly free drugs and what rate!

I picked up our Malarone anti malaria tablets today, and I currently have a big cheesy grin as the pharmasist only charged me the standard prescription rate so £6.85 for Claire and me, and free for the kids. So my Malarone that was originally going to cost £467 I finally got for £13.70, as soon as I got the tablets in my sweaty little hands I was out of that shop like a rocket feeling well smug.

But my smugness didn't last for long, I picked up my dollars and sols but didn't check the dollar rate like a twat until I got home. 1.83, one bloody eightythree it was 1.93 when I ordered them. Straight on the phone, apparently the computer doesn't always give the correct rate when buying large sums, it uses a lesser rate rather than a preferential rate. Although its sorted I still feel a little cheated. The upshot is I need to go back into town tomorrow and pick up my extra $72. I have a feeling I will take a bit more notice of the exchange rate.

Claire has just been reading up on Bolivia, I'm not sure what site she was on but it could have been 'horror stories R us' handcuffed and kidnapped by fake police, drugs planted on them at airport, bags robbed and altitude sickness stories. Hmm can't wait.

Still not packed.

Better do some packing

Still not packed, its a now just over a week until we go so I think I should better get some done. Perhaps Claire will do it for me, then again I want some decent clothes that I can wear.... and some pants, Claire would find it dead funny not to pack any for me.

I have actual done some work towards the holiday, I spent most of last saturday driving around various chemists and supermarkets getting a price for Malarone our malaria tablet of choice. Its pretty expensive but it has the least side effects and is the only suitable for children. Claire and I have to take 37 each, Darcey 74 and poor old Piper has to take a whopping 111 tablets.

Boots were going to charge £467 which is the kind of price I was expecting, Sainsburys charge was £380ish, quite an improvement. Manor pharmacy was down to £315, while Tescos, ASDA and Superdrug all came in at £308. I am quickly comming to the conclusion that I got a bit ripped off last year for the Malarone. I also had a quick check of the internet and I managed to find them for £288 but something about buying drugs off the internet was putting me off.

I have also been and ordered our foreign currency, a load of US dollars which seems to be the currency of choice in Peru and a handful of the local notes 'nuevo sol', I wonder what these will be like I always find foriegn currency has the look of monoply money that Mickey Mouse keeps in his wallet.

Still no packing done.